The AeroBox is a removable storage box that sits in the rear of your truck bed against the tailgate. Unlike our adhesive overlays, it is bolted to the truck, which means drilling into the truck bed (and the tailgate opening rail on the Premium version). The two versions install very differently, so pick the right one below.
Check your version first: the Standard and Premium boxes use different attachment methods. Compare what came in your box with the list of parts for each version before you start. If you are unsure, contact us before drilling anything.
Before you start
- Read all of the steps for your version first. Do a dry fit of the box in the bed before you drill.
- Decide where you want the box, then check that the tailgate still closes with it in place.
- Drilling is permanent. Take your time with marking and measuring.
- If your truck has a drop-in bed liner, it may need some modification for the box to work properly.
Truck-specific notes
Choose your version to see the parts, tools and steps.
Pick your truck
AeroBox
StandardPremium
AeroBox Standard
Extra tools: Center punch, drill with 9/64", 3/8" and 15/32" bits, Phillips screwdriver, a 5/16"-18 x 1.5" bolt and washers, 5/16" and 1/2" wrenches or sockets, pliers
Install notes:
- In the box: the box, two keyed cam locks and a load floor, plus kits for the wheels, six rubber feet and attachment hardware (two thumbscrews with nylock nuts, two pre-bulbed threaded inserts and an insert installation tool).
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Wheels. Place the box upside down on a clean, non-abrasive surface. Thread each axle bolt through the wheel bearing into the threaded insert in the wheel pocket and tighten with a 1/2 inch wrench until snug. Do not overtighten.
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Rubber feet. With the box still upside down, drill a 9/64" hole at the center mark of each foot location. Turn the box door side up, push a #6 screw through each foot and the hole, and fit a split washer and nut from inside the box (the front center has a pre-installed insert). The feet help stop the box sliding. You can leave them off if you prefer it to slide more easily.
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Check the fit. Slide the box upright into the tailgate opening until its door would sit flush with the tailgate when closed, centered in the opening. Close the tailgate to be sure it does not interfere.
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Mark and drill. With the box where you want it, center-punch a hole location about in the middle of the hand-access cutout in the load floor and the channel at the base of the box, for both sides. Drill a 3/8" hole through the floor of the box only. Make sure each location lands on a flat part of the truck bed floor and not on the side of a corrugation, otherwise reposition the box.
- Using those holes as guides, drill through the truck bed floor (and any liner) at both locations. Do not move the box until both holes are drilled. Then remove the box and enlarge the bed holes with a 15/32" drill.
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Fit the threaded inserts. Put two washers on a 5/16"-18 bolt (at least 1.5 inch, not included), pass it through the hole in the installation tool and thread an insert onto it until tight. Push the insert through the bed hole. Hold the tool firmly (wear gloves) so it does not turn, and tighten the bolt with a 1/2 inch socket or impact wrench until the insert is fully compressed against the sheet metal. Do not overtighten, to avoid stripping the threads. Unscrew the bolt and repeat on the other side. The bolt is hard to turn at first, easier as the insert starts to compress, then very hard when it is fully compressed. If you have a drop-in liner, raise it so the insert clamps directly to the sheet metal.
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Secure the box. Slide it into position, open the door, drop the thumbscrew through the drilled hole in the floor, line it up with the threaded insert and tighten until the flanged nut bottoms out on the box. Repeat on the other side. The tailgate acts as an extra restraint, so keep it closed when driving. The nylock nut can be moved up or down to suit the clamp range; set it so the thumbscrew only extends a few turns into the insert.
Watch for:
- A drop-in bed liner may need some modification for the box to work properly.
- Very heavy items combined with rough terrain or hard braking can pull the box loose or damage the attachment. Use extra tie-downs in those cases.
- You can tether the fasteners to the box with string so they do not get lost.
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AeroBox Premium
Extra tools: Marker or crayon, tape measure, the included rivet nut tool, T25 and T45 Torx drivers, 7/16" and 1/2" wrenches or sockets, drill with 17/64" and 25/64" bits, center punch
Install notes:
- In the box: the box, two keyed cam locks, a load floor, two strikers and claw latches, plus kits for the wheels, three tie-down rings with brackets, two striker mounting brackets with strikers and spacer washers, six pre-bulbed threaded inserts, button head cap screws and the insert installation tool.
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Wheels. Place the box upside down on a clean, non-abrasive surface. Thread each axle bolt through the wheel bearing into the threaded insert in the wheel pocket and tighten with a 1/2 inch wrench until snug. Do not overtighten.
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Tie-down rings. With the box right side up, find the drill marks at each tie-down location on the rounded side and drill a 17/64" hole at each. Fit a ring into its bracket recess, line the bracket holes up with the drilled holes, push the 1/4"-20 bolts toward the inside of the box and fasten each with a washer and nylock nut from inside (7/16" socket and wrench). The rings should move freely in their brackets.
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Check the fit. Slide the box upright into the tailgate opening until its door would sit flush with the tailgate when closed, centered in the opening. Close the tailgate to be sure it does not interfere.
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Mark the striker brackets. Measure 10 1/4 inches up from the bed floor along the tailgate opening rail and mark it. Place the striker bracket, with its offset toward the truck centerline, over the mark so the center slot is centered vertically on it, and mark inside each slot. The back edge of the bracket should usually be about flush with the back edge of the opening rail. Moving it forward increases the gap between the box and tailgate, which may help if the tailgate interferes. Never put the bracket rearward of the rail edge.
- Mark drilling locations centered vertically in each slot, with the fore-aft positions staggered between the center slot and the top and bottom slots for the most strength. Leave a little space at each end of the slots for adjustment. Center punch each mark so the bit does not wander, then drill a 25/64" hole at each (a 3/8" bit works if you do not have one). If there is a plastic liner, drill through the liner and the sheet metal.
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Fit the threaded inserts. Put a washer on a 1/4"-20 cap screw, pass it through the hole in the installation tool and thread an insert onto it until tight. Push the insert through a drilled hole, hold the tool firmly so it does not turn, and tighten the screw with a T25 driver (an impact driver is better) until the insert is fully compressed. Do not overtighten. Unscrew the cap screw and repeat for each insert. The screw is hard to turn at first, easier as the insert starts to compress, then very hard when it is fully compressed. One spare cap screw is included in case one is damaged.
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Fit the strikers and brackets. Put a striker on each bracket with the striker head on the side that is offset toward the truck centerline. If needed, adjust the striker length with spacer washers on its stem; the number depends on the width of your tailgate opening, per the table included. Secure each with a 5/16"-18 nylock nut using a T45 driver or vise grips. Attach the brackets with washers and 1/4"-20 cap screws at each insert, loosely at first. The brackets work on either side.
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Install the box. Slide it forward in the bed, roughly lining the claw latches on each side up with the strikers. The strikers should line up with the recessed channel on each side of the box that leads to the latch, and engage the claw latches when the mushroom head of each striker clears to the inside of each latch at the same time.
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Adjust. If needed, loosen the striker nut and move the striker up or down in its slot until it is centered vertically in the channels and latch (typically 10 1/4 inches above the bed floor), then tighten it securely. Fore-aft adjustment is usually not needed, but the brackets can slide within their slots if it is. When everything is adjusted, the box should click into both latches at the same time. Make sure all nuts are tight, and recheck them from time to time.
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Removing the box. Open the door and lift the release handle on each side. Once released, close and latch the door and use the door handle or the sides to slide the box out and roll it away.
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Divider panels. The Premium box comes with two. Line them up with the grooves at the bottom of the door opening, tilt each slightly to the side and slide it forward. When it is almost all the way forward, tilt it back to vertical and lock it into the grooves. Removal is the reverse.
Watch for:
- A drop-in bed liner may need some modification for the box to work properly.
- Very heavy items combined with rough terrain or hard braking can pull the box loose or damage the attachment. Use extra tie-downs in those cases.
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Troubleshooting
The tailgate will not close
Slide the box forward, or on the Premium version move the striker brackets forward on the rail. Never put the bracket rearward of the rail edge.
A threaded insert will not compress
It is normal for the bolt to get very hard to turn as the insert clamps. Use an impact wrench or a longer bar, and stop once the insert is fully compressed.
Need help? Email info@partify.ca or call 888-719-8297, and tell us your vehicle and the part number from your order.
